ball python temperature and humidity


Hey I have a 120 gallon I’m trying to raise the temp up for my new ball python but I’m scared to leave the ceramic and red light on all night is it safe to do this ? I recently purchased a ball python and I am wondering if my temps are OK.
In the wild, humidity ranges roughly between 45-75%, with dips down to 30% and spikes up to 90%.

!<3 thanks. As long as you get close to the ideal range, your snake will do fine. These temperatures are ideal for ball pythons.

The cool temp keeps going up to c.30c and 65-70% humidity. The ideal temperature of a ball python habitat would be 90°F to 95°F (32°C – 35°C). Heat rises. Their basking temperature/ground temperature should be around 89-97 degrees Fahrenheit (31.5 – 36.1 degrees Celsius). Your ball python's enclosure should have a humidity level of between 50% and 60%, with the higher end of that range being optimal. If you can place a heat lamp over the screened area without it completely covering the screened area, then you can warm your snake’s cage without eliminating airflow.

Should I be using both a heat lamp and a heat mat for under the tank. and is it important with ball pythons?

A dry substrate with a suitable water bowl and ambient humidity levels should be perfectly satisfactory while avoiding the potential health risks of a wet cage. Under these conditions, my ball pythons are healthy, active and eating regularly. Ashleigh – Has your snake shed yet?

If you do this, you’ll probably end up with a temperature range of around 78 – 80 (F) on the cooler side, and 92 on the warmer side. Bro they aren’t snuggling or cuddling they are fighting for heat and also if it gets worse they can become territorial do not keep ball pythons especially two males and if you don’t want babies then don’t house a female and a male. If the ball python sheds well, it probably has all of the humidity it needs. I have a heat pad under and a heat lamp and it is only getting about 70 degrees and it has me worried.. also I am wondering if that could ne the reason I am having trouble with one of them eating. Then the cages will warm back up to my preferred temperatures during the day. Just keep it warm and get another nighttime red heating lamp ASAP.

Tin foil maybe? Just be careful that you don’t overheat the bottom of the cage, or the glass could crack. This is the problem with screen tops on reptile cages. If you live in a very dry area, such as some of the southern States, then it may be necessary to gently increase the humidity within your ball python cage. Generally increasing the size of a water dish should help with humidity.

Just monitor the snake’s shedding. This will help. For everyone else, it’s time for a quick science lesson — very short, I promise. I was hoping you had some tips. But after a few hours the heat side dropped to about 85 to even the lowest of 81, and Im turning the heat pad I have up on its thermostat to 90, to heat things back up, and it just won’t get any hotter. A ball python care sheet on Kingsnake.com recommends a thermal gradient of 82° – 90° (Fahrenheit). I use Helix BDS just google it.

As long as you have a decent thermostat to control the temps heat bulbs have certain watts that give heat at certain heights and heat mats go max at 90-95 and cheap inkbird dual control solves all set 1 side at 80 the other at 90 plug your heat sources in and away you go I use Spyder Robotics their top of line with basking assist and all types of features, My red light burned out and I’m stuck without one for the night, should I keep my white light heat lamp overnight until I can get another bulb or turn it off until morning?
So they must bask under the sun, or on top of warm surfaces, in order to heat their bodies But the problem is that the the temperature will only go to 75 degrees. I purchased a large plastic enclosure built specifically for reptiles, and divided it in half. Will I need to add a lamp because of this? The temperature falls from a bit 88 to 73 or so at night. I’ve been trying to rule out every reason why my banana ball python isn’t eating since being shipped to me. In order to facilitate this, provide a range of humidity levels in the enclosure. It takes a bit of effort to get it sized and taped up but the result is very insulation and very cheap as a 4 by 8 foot board is about 15-20 dollars.

As of right now, I have no way of monitoring the temp on the surface of the substrate until I get a probe. A larger water bowl means that there is more surface area for water to evaporate from. We have heat pad under the tank and heat lamp on top. Always start with the easiest thing first. If the humidity level drops below 50%, quite a few different problems can occur. Ball pythons, just like all other reptiles, are sensitive to temperature.

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